johna's automotive blog

How to remove the under dash knee pad (instrument panel lower) on a Volvo S40/V50/C30

2023-07-07T12:00:00+10:00

Instrument panel lower

Note! The illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and/or models. Some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.

Removal

Removing soundproofing panels

Remove:
· the panel inside the center console. It is secured with 4 hidden clips.

· the end cover. Use a weatherstrip tool
· the 1 clip (1).

· the 3 screws.

· the passenger compartment temperature sensor.

Press the sensor forward in the vehicle to release it.

Pull the panel down and out.

Note! There are 2 hidden clips at the top edge of the soundproofing panel.

Disconnect the 1 connector for the courtesy lighting.

Installation

Installing the soundproofing panel

Connect the connector for the courtesy lighting.

Guide the panel into place. Secure the passenger compartment temperature sensor.

Note! There are 2 hidden clips at the top edge of the soundproofing panel.

Install:

· the 3 screws. Tighten
· the 1 clip
· the end cover
· the panel inside the center console. It is secured with 4 hidden clips.

Volvo S40/V50 P1 battery replacement

2023-04-29T12:00:00+10:00

Replacement procedure:

Remove strut brace if fitted.
Torque: M8, 24 Nm

Remove the top battery cover.

Disconnect the battery: first disconnect the negative battery cable, and then the positive.
Torque: 6 Nm

Remove the plastic panel.

Remove the clamp.
Torque: M6, 10 Nm

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Before reconnecting the battery, some people recommend that the ignition be turned to the on position (position II). After reconnecting lock and unlock the car with the key. Failure to do this has sometimes resulted in the car not being able to be started.

Vehicles with Battery Monitoring Sensor (BMS):
Use VIDA to reset according to DIAGNOSTICS/VEHICLE COMMUNICATION/CEM/Advanced/Resetting information when replacing main battery.

Selecting a replacement battery:

From my experience, battery manufacturer websites can give misleading information. For example, some manufacturers recommend a 700CCA AGM type battery as some S40/V50 are fitted with start/stop. But for base models Volvo specify a 590CCA battery.

You can look up what battery Volvo specify for your model using VIDA or one of the online equivalents. The battery rating varies depending on certain features such as sound system and start/stop.

Battery part numbers - apply to 2006 S40/V50:

The battery size is 278x175x175 mm, may be called N66 or DIN65. Larger batteries may fit but may prevent the plastic top cover/vent from fitting properly. Ensure you get the correct connector layout and that the CCA rating meets that specified by Volvo at a minimum.

Basic models
30659794 520/590CCA

Models with high performance sound system, premium sound system, RTI, Volvo on Call (VOC)
30659798 600CCA

Models up to chassis no. 590035, excluding B4164SX, high performance sound system, premium sound, RTI, telematic system, vehicles without start/stop
30659799 700CCA

Models from chassis no. 590036, excluding B4164SX, high performance sound system, premium sound, RTI, telematic system, vehicles without start/stop
30659795 700CCA

Models with start/stop, without direct delivery system
31255132 760CCA

How to replace Volvo B5244S4 right engine pad/mount

2023-04-25T12:00:00+10:00

Support engine.

Pull coolant overflow tank out and move to the side.
Warning! Be prepared to collect escaping fluid.

Remove x2 screws from engine pad to frame member
Torque: 90 Nm

Remove x2 screws from engine pad to engine
Torque: 133 Nm

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

How to replace Volvo B5244S4 accessory belts

2023-04-25T12:00:00+10:00

1. Support the vehicle and remove right front wheel.

2. Remove engine undertray.

3. Relax tension on belt and remove belt.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Volvo B5244S4 timing belt replacement

2023-04-25T12:00:00+10:00

1. Remove accessory drive belt.
www.motortraders.net/articles/2289-how-to-replace-volvo-b5244s4-accessory-belts

2. Remove right engine mount.
www.motortraders.net/articles/2292-how-to-replace-volvo-b5244s4-right-engine-pad-mount

3. Remove timing belt cover(s).
The top cover is held on by two Torx screws on the top of the engine. For B5244S4 engine you will need to remove the inlet manifold to access these.
The lower cover is held on by one Torx screw on the side of the engine.
Torque: M6, 10 Nm

4. Align the crankshaft and camshaft.
Temporarily refit the top timing belt cover as the camshaft alignment marks are on this cover.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks align.

5. Remove the vibration damper/crank pulley.
Special tool 9995433 can be screwed to the crankshaft to hold the vibration damper/crank pulley. A home-made tool is also possible to make.
Alternately, some people have found they can remove and install the timing belt without removing the pulley. In this case, the plastic cover around the pulley needs to be removed.
Torque: 180 Nm

6. Remove the timing belt tensioner.
Models up to MY2006: Insert a 6 mm Allen key into the hole in the tensioner arm, then loosen the tensioner retaining bolt, and rotate the tensioner assembly clockwise to around the 10 o'clock position to relieve tension. Remove the tensioner.
Models from MY2006: Undo the tensioner retaining bolt to relieve tension and remove the tensioner.

7. Remove the timing belt.

Installation

8. Ensure the camshaft and crankshaft are in the correct positions.

9. FIt the new pulley.

10. Fit the new timing belt tensioner.
Models up to MY2006: With the tensioner arm at around the 10 o'clock position, lightly tighten the retaining belt. Fit the new timing belt. Using a 6 mm Allen key, turn the belt tensioner anti-clockwise until its pointer reaches the right of the central notch, then turn it back to align with the central notch. Hold the tensioner in this position and tighten the retaining bolt.
Models from MY2006: Fit the new tensioner and tighten the retaining bolt. Rotate the tensioner anti-clockwise until a locking pin can be inserted through the holes in the arm and backplate once they are aligned. Fit the new timing belt. Pull out the tensioner locking pin.
Torque: M8, 24 Nm

Volvo S40/V50/C30/C70 II rear brake caliper piston rewind tool specifications

2023-01-05T12:00:00+10:00

When changing the rear brake pads on a Volvo P1 chassis model (S40, V50, C30, C70 II), you can't just push the piston back into the caliper to make room for the new pads.

The pistons on these models need to be turned clockwise and pushed back at the same time. The piston contains two holes so a tool can be used to accomplish this.

Although it is possible to turn the piston with a pair of needle-nose pliers, special tools are available for this purpose and are inexpensive.

Many other makes and models now use the same system, but there are a variety of different sizes and some turn clockwise and others anti-clockwise. The hole spacing for these Volvo models is 20mm (unconfirmed) and this size is not included in all kits, so be careful what you buy.

A universal brake rewind tool kit like the 22/23 piece one pictured and commonly found on eBay and Amazon will suit these Volvo models and might be useful later with future makes and models.

Note: for the earlier 1996 to 2004 Volvo S40 and V40, you need a 31.75mm tool.

How to remove trim piece from Volvo V50 rear doors?

2022-07-26T12:00:00+10:00

Is the circled part on the back door easy to replace or am I best repainting the current one? How do they come off?

UPDATE 5 Jan 2023

In responses to the same question on Facebook, I was told that it is screwed in place from behind but can be tricky to keep it in its original shape when removed.

Volvo S40 and V50 (P1) 2004-2012

2021-03-27T12:00:00+10:00

Many reports of unreliability due to electrical issues, and some reports of automatic transmission problems, particularly on later models with the Ford Powershift automatic transmission.

All engines have a timing belt which need regular replacement, although Volvo interval is longer than most. Depending on engine, the replacement interval is either 190,000 km or 240,000 km, or every ten years.

Expensive to replace PCV system can cause issues. Coolant expansion tanks also crack with age and leak.

Some early Australian models came with a full size spare but later models came with a space-saver.

Image credit: IFCAR, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Cleaning the camshaft check valve (VVT valve) on a Volvo B5244S4

2020-12-20T12:00:00+10:00

My Volvo V50 2.4i recently threw a couple of VVT related error codes: ECM-640A and ECM-640F and one of the suggestions in VIDA is to clean or replace the inlet camshaft check valve (VVT valve). However, I could not find any instructions online.

I eventually found some procedures in VIDA.

To get access to the valve you will need to remove the plastic inlet manifold and top timing belt cover. The valve is located near the oil fill tube and is held on by one Torx T30 screw.

You can then lever up the valve with a screwdriver. Do not rotate the valve.

Note that there is an o-ring.

Installation is the reverse, torque for the screw is 7 Nm.

Following is the cleaning procedure from VIDA:

Blow compressed air into the oil feed hole (4). Air should come out through both A ports (1 and 3).
Blow compressed air into the oil drain hole (5). Air should come out through the B port (2).
For further function checks continue with "Check function". If the duct seems to be blocked, go to "cleaning".
Connect current to the solenoid. The solenoid should click. It may be easier to hear the click by holding the solenoid.
Blow compressed air into the oil feed hole (4). Air should come out through the B port (2).
If the piston sticks or the solenoid does not work electrically, the direction of flow will not change.
If the duct seems to be blocked, go to "cleaning".
Use: Cleaner, 1161826, (1161828 US)
Allow the cleaner to act for 5 minutes.
Blow compressed air into all holes from both directions and look for contamination. Carry this out with current on and off to ensure that no dirt remains in the ducts.
Use: Cleaning agent, 1161721
Rinse with cleaner, part no. 1161721.
Blow again.
Regrease the solenoid with engine oil to prevent sticking.
After cleaning, check the function by carrying out steps 1 and 2 again.
If the solenoid still malfunctions after cleaning twice, replace the solenoid.
Installation
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Erase DTCs and test drive the vehicle.
Check that no new DTCs have been stored.

Review of Napolex Broadway rear-view mirror

2020-11-20T12:00:00+10:00

My Volvo V50's rear-view mirror is pretty small and all I can see out of it at most times is what is directly behind me, and not the rear corners like I have been able to see out of most cars I have driven.

I found it a bit unsafe as it takes a bit of extra effort to check my blindspots and actually had a couple of situations where I thought it was clear to change lanes but spotted a car there in a final shoulder check.

I heard about Broadway mirrors on a Youtube video so looked them up and ended up ordering one from China on Aliexpress for less than A$15. I'm not sure if it is a genuine Napolex Broadway but it came packaged and branded as from Napolex.

They make a few different types. Widths are either 270mm or 300mm, and they come in either flat or convex, and white or blue. I read a few reviews and formed the opinion that the convex mirrors take some getting used to so I went with a flat one and I chose a 270mm as I knew that would fit between my sun visors when they are in-use. I didn't specifically choose blue but that is what came but it just looks like a normal mirror to me and is not noticeably blue.

The mirror clipped on to the factory mirror very easily and provides a great view of what's behind and the rear of both sides. I can now see from B-pillar to B-pillar on my wagon.

I can certainly recommend these mirrors - the flat type at least - where your factory mirror is inadequate.

The only negative is that on bumpy roads there is some vibration but it's not too bad. Maybe some foam between the mirrors might improve this.

Just make sure you measure the distance between your sun visors when they are in-use and make sure you can fit the size you are looking at (270mm is a good size). Your factory mirror also needs to be between 55mm and 80mm high for the Broadway mirror to fit.

This is the one that I bought from Aliexpress:
www.aliexpress.com/item/32961727724.html

Volvo - Ford - Mazda P1 parts compatability

2020-07-25T12:00:00+10:00

Putting together a list of Volvo P1 parts (S40/V50/C30/C70) and their Ford and Mazda equivalents.

Volvo Part	Part No.	Ford P/N
Coolant tank (2.4i)	30776151	1438913 / 3M5H8K218DG
Coolant tank (T5)	30776150	5M5H8K218AA / 8V618K218AE ?
Engine mount right (2.4i)	31262676
Engine mount right (T5)	30758020	3M516F012AJ
Engine mount left (2.4i, 194444+)	31316498	5N517M121KD
Engine mount left	31359779	3M517M121GB

Torque Mount (2.4i) - Volvo P/N 9487349

These are the same as some Ford Focus models - LT/LV series (2007-2009) with D4204T engine - and some Mazda 3 BK series models.

Also same as some ford C-MAX, KUGA, TORNEO CONNECT, TRANSIT CONNECT models.

Ford P/N is 3M516P082AF and Mazda P/N is AV616P082AB.

There are some aftermarket parts: Mackay P/N A7383.

Intake Variable Valve Timing Solenoid

This part is shared with many Volvo 2.4 or 2.5-litre 5-cylinder engines (S40, V50, C30, C70, V40, S60, V60), turbo and non-turbo, and some of the turbo Ford Focus, Mondeo, S-Max and Kuga models.

Volvo P/N: 36002687, 31216221
Ford P/N 1478181, 6M5G-6L713-AB
Dorman P/N: 918-093, 772956JA, 857544PD
Standard Motor Products P/N VVT263
BWD P/N VV1163
INA P/N 4270003100

2015 Volvo S60, 2015 Volvo V60, 2015 Volvo V60 Cross Country, 2015 Volvo XC60, 2008-2013 Volvo C30, 2006-2013 Volvo C70, 2004-2011 Volvo S40, 2012-2014 Volvo S60, 2005-2011 Volvo V50, 2000-2007 Volvo V70
Volvo B5244, B5254, B5204 engines
Ford JZDA, HYDA, HYDC, HYDB, HUBA, HUWA engines

This page is a work in progress.

My new project Volvo V50

2020-07-07T12:00:00+10:00

I have been looking for a phase 1 or 2 Volvo V40 for a long time, but at the same time keeping my eye out for other options including V50s. Manual Volvos are rare in Australia so not much comes up for sale that interests me.

I spotted this 2007 manual 2.4i V50 for sale for a very low price and with several problems mentioned including an idle/stalling problem, leaking CV joint boot, worn engine mount and non-functioning air conditioning. It also had a severely worn steering wheel and was missing the gear knob. It has done just under 190,000 km.

It seemed like a good opportunity to get a manual V50 for a good price and I keep convincing myself that I like a project car, so I made my way to see it in the dark on a Sunday night to be first to see it before someone the seller said was coming the next day.

First impressions weren't great (didn't appear to be have been cared for at all and had a strong cigarette smell) and I was thinking of walking away so didn't do many checks, but after a little thinking time, I decided to make a low offer (two-thirds the asking price) and either walk away or get it cheap enough that it wouldn't be much of a loss if it didn't turn out well. The seller surprisingly accepted my offer (usually a bad sign) so I paid for the car and left it there overnight as I would need to come back the next day to pick it up.

The next day I showed up complete with tools and supplies. The first check was the oil level and there was nothing showing on the dipstick. Little by little I added oil and waited to see some signs of it on the dipstick. I'm not sure how much I put in there but I think it was about 3 litres before it hit the low mark on the dipstick.

The coolant tank was also showing well below the minimum mark so I added some distilled water.

One of the tyres looked flat so I checked them all and one of them was showing only 10 psi and I found something metal stuck in it, which I didn't remove. I checked the spare and found it was a tiny space-saver with an 80 km/h speed limit which I didn't like the idea of using on the motorway.

I drove a couple of minutes to a service station and put some air in the tyre and checked again a few minutes later to see if it was holding air. It seemed ok so I decided to run with it. I also checked the oil level and added some more, and also added some more water (I had run out of distilled water) as the coolant level had gone back down below minimum again.

On the road, I found that after the car got warm it wanted to stall every time I stopped - just like the seller said - so I had to keep the revs up and not let it idle. There was also some vibration (possibly engine mounts as suggested by the seller) and the engine had some hesitation at times. Aside from those issues it actually drove well and there were no issues with overheating. My wife, who was following, she said that she never saw any smoke which is a good sign.

I drove for about 10 km and stopped again to check everything. The oil and coolant levels had stabilised and the tyre was still showing the same pressure so I headed the remaining 50 km home.

The stalling issue was a bit stressful and I dreaded every stop but aside from a few stalls, it made it okay.

At one point I wondered why the side mirror was rattling so much and I made the mistake of touching it which resulted in it falling off and smashing into pieces on the road behind me.

Eventually, I made it home and gave the (very dirty) car a wash. I noticed some light hail damage on the roof and some reasonably minor paint imperfections that I hadn't seen the night before.

The leather on the seats is a bit worn, and much of the plastic interior parts are a little faded from exposure to the sun but the interior is in good condition.

It looks like it will clean up okay and once the stalling problem and a few other issues are resolved it should make a reasonable daily driver and hopefully, I will have spent a lot less than its market value.