johna's automotive blog

Registering an unregistered vehicle in NSW

2025-09-30T12:00:00+10:00

Here's what you need to know if registering an unregistered vehicle in NSW, whether the car was previously registered in NSW or another state.

Ensure that you have a receipt from the seller that states their full name and address, your full name and address and license number, details of the car including year, make, model and VIN number, and the sale price, date of sale and mileage at time of sale. This must be an original signed receipt. You can use download a suitable form here.

You will need to obtain an authorised unregistered vehicle inspection (blue slip) report. Only certain inspection stations are accredited to do these, so the usual place where you get an annual safety check (previously known as a pink slip) may not do blue slips. The current cost of these is $80. You can search for one here - look for the AUVIS accreditation.

You will need to buy a green slip specifically for an unregistered car, based on the VIN number. If you are planning on doing this immediately after purchasing the car note that you will need a physical copy of the green slip, even if you print it out yourself. So if you are out on the road and buy it online you will need a way to print it. If you are far from home you might be able to get it printed at a post office, newsagent or maybe you might find a kind RMS staff member that will print it for you.

Green slip prices can vary a lot, so it's worth using the government price check service to find the best price. Even if you usually find one company cheapest, it's worth checking as prices can vary based on many factors.

Once you have a blue slip and green slip you can visit Service NSW, wait in a queue, and then attempt to register the car. You will need an Application for Registration form which you can prepare in advance or obtain one and fill it out when you are there.

You will need to pay stamp duty based on the price paid or the market value. Some people illegally write down a lower amount on the receipt in an effort to save on this. The amount is $3 per $100 value.

You also need to pay the registration fee which varies based on vehicle weight and whether the vehicle is for private or business use. It ranges from $270 for under 975kg to $1,481 for 4,500kg (private use). Most small to medium cars fall into the 1,155kg to 1,504kg range ($380) or larger cars from 1,505kg to 2,504kg ($579).

Lastly, you need to pay for number plates. Even if the car still has number plates (the seller should have handed them back to the RMS) you must hand in the plates and buy new plates. This seems ridiculous and wasteful but maybe there is a reason. Standard black on yellow plates are $57 or slimline black on white plates are $165. You can also pay more and get different styles and custom plates if you wish to help out the government financially.

You can use the online calculator to work out what the total cost will be including stamp duty, registration cost and number plates.

As an example, a small hatchback I recently registered cost $1,127 all up including all of the above costs and just the basic black on yellow number plates.

• Find a safety inspection provider
• Greenslip price check service
• Application for Registration form
• Vehicle registration calculator
• Sample receipt

Prices correct as of 29 September 2025.

This week's worst classified advertisement photos

2022-11-18T12:00:00+10:00

When advertising a used car for sale, good photos can make a big difference. Here are some tips based on what we have seen recently.

Make sure your photos are orientated correctly...

Most websites allow you to upload more than one photo, so stick to one photo per photo....

Most potential buyers are hoping for a reliable car, so try to avoid photos that might suggest that your car is not...

And even if that oil stain is not from your car, maybe find a better spot to take your photos...

Little things matter, like straightening the steering wheel...

A car that has been used to transport pets may put off some people, so this might be a time not to include your dog in photos...

Likewise, a car that has been used to transport a dead body...

For more tips on photography when selling a used car see our post, Using the best photos when selling your used car (www.motortraders.net/posts/960-using-the-best-photos-when-selling-your-used-car).

How to find the VIN of a car by Australian registration number

2021-02-23T12:00:00+10:00

Have you ever wanted to find the VIN of a car in Australia but all you have is the cars registration number?

There are a few ways that you can find the VIN for free online.

1 - Gumtree

If you start to create a new advertisement on Gumtree to sell a car, in one of the first steps it will provide the option of entering a registration number and state to find the car. This will then show the basic details of the car including the VIN.

www.gumtree.com.au

2 - Free car history websites

Some of the car history websites will show you part of the VIN but not all of it. Some will give you the first half and some will give you the second, so you can put together the VIN by checking on two websites. Although these websites charge for the vehicle history, the VIN is shown on a page before you actually have to pay.

www.carhistory.com.au and www.carfacts.com.au are two websites you can use for this.

3 - Get an insurance quote from NRMA

This may only work for NSW but insurers in other states may do the same thing.

Go to www.nrma.com.au and choose to get a comprehensive car insurance quote. Enter all of the details it requires and make sure you use the option where you enter the registration number rather than choosing the type of vehicle from a list. Once you have the quote you will then need to choose to pay for the policy and during that process you will get to see the cars VIN number. You don't need to go through the full process to pay for the policy, of course.

4 - Recall websites

This works for BMWs and you may find something similar for other brands. To find the VIN of a BMW go to www.recall.bmw.com.au and enter the registration number. When you go to the next page you will see the full VIN.

Don't overestimate the value of low mileage

2020-01-20T12:00:00+10:00

It always amazes and amuses us when we come across a used car for sale where the seller believes that because their vehicle has very low mileage that it deserves a very high sale price.

Maybe if you have a collector car that is in high demand, then you can demand a premium for low mileage, but for the average car no buyer is going to want to pay well above the going rate for that model.

Very recently we spotted this 2003 Volvo S40 turbo for sale for a massive $9,500! Keep in mind that the Redbook value for this model is $2,800 to $4,400 for a private sale.

Why so much? The seller says it has exceptionally low mileage of 61,000 km.

Let's see what similar models are going for... There's a range for sale from $500 to $4,500. The next most expensive being the same year but non-turbo and also with low mileage (77,000 km).

What about if we extend our search to the later model S40? For $7,000 we can get a 2006 model with 45,000 km.

When you are asking over twice the going rate for a used car, you would think the seller would put maximum effort in creating their advertisement, right? Not this seller.

First, their advertisement headling incorrectly describes the car as a 2.4 when it is quite clearly a 2.0-litre.

They have seven photos with their listing. One of the dashboard (complete with mess in the footwells), and two of awkward shots of only part of the rear of the car. The remaining images are photos of the brochure for the car!

We'll be watching to see if this car sells and for any price reductions. Our guess is the seller may be in for a bit of a wait at their current asking price.

Are low mileage cars better?

Experts say that a car with low mileage may be a more risky purchase than a car with average mileage.

The vehicle may have been subjected to mostly short trips which will cause extra wear and tear on a vehicle.

Servicing may have been done based on mileage rather than time, so some parts and fluids may be past their used by date and not providing the necessary protection.

Many plastic and rubber parts will become brittle if they're not used regularly and most mechanical systems work better when they are running at normal operating temperature regularly.

So low mileage may be attractive, but there can be significant drawbacks, and you should be prepared and allow for some extra maintenance and repair costs.

So how much extra is low mileage worth?

For anything other than a historic collector car you really can't expect much more than the maximum going market price for that model, and that's assuming the car is also in very good condition and has had servicing according to the manufacturer's schedule.

Update:

Within a week there has been two price reductions. First to only $9,000, and then to $8,000 a day later. We still wish them good luck at those prices.

A used car seller with no idea?

2019-12-12T12:00:00+10:00

We came across this listing for a 2002 Mercedes-Benz on Carsales today, and it's so bad that we had to share.

What first got our attention was that this 18-year-old car was being offered for $14,250. A quick check of prices on Carsales shows that similar models are priced from $3,500 to $9,000. Around $5,000 to $6,000 we also found a few cars with similar mileage, and also some more desirable models.

We checked the description to see what reason there might be for such a huge margin over other similar models. There was mention of low kilometres (92,000), a full-service history from new, and apparently no children had ever sullied the car. It also had aftermarket wheels and sheepskin seat covers. Nowhere near enough in our opinion to justify such a huge margin over the going rate.

Another interesting part of the description is that the seller seemed insistent that the car had a 2.0-litre engine despite Carsales specifications stating it is a 1.8-litre engine. A check of the VIN confirms Carsales got it right and it is 1.8-litres.

The next part is a little dumbfounding. The description boasts that the car is registered in NSW until 24 June 2013. Yes, June 2013 - over 6 years ago. There is even a photo of the registration label attached to the windscreen (labels were phased out in 2013). A check of the registration on the Service NSW website shows the car has current registration which expires in June 2020. Huh!?!

We started to think that they may have been trying to see the car since 2013 and using the same ad, but Carsales reports the listing was posted only today.

We wonder how soon it will sell?

Update: The listing has since been revised with a new price – $5,250 – much more reasonable!

Beware used cars that have had recent work done

2019-12-09T12:00:00+10:00

A used car that has recent repairs or maintenance may seem more attractive than others, but beware that sometimes recent work can mean that there is a major problem with the car that the seller does not want to deal with.

Most people spending money on their car want to see a reasonable return on their investment. There may even be some sellers out there who want to make sure their car is sold problem-free, but I'm sure they are in the minority.

Here are some examples of what kind of recent work you should be suspicious of and investigate further before purchasing a used car.

Cooling system

The cooling system does require regular maintenance but you should be aware that when a cooling system component fails it can cause the car to overheat and subsequent major damage to the engine.

A recent water pump or radiator replacement may seem appealing but were they replaced as part of regular maintenance or did the component fail?

Some sellers may repair the obvious cooling system fault only to find out that the head gasket has failed and decide to cut their losses at that point.

Automatic transmission

The first step to try and fix many automatic transmission faults is to replace the filter and fluid. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

If it doesn't solve the problem then the next step is often an expensive repair, overhaul or replacement, so many sellers will attempt to sell and pass on the problem to the next owner.

Cylinder head

A used car for sale with a freshly reconditioned cylinder head or new head gasket is not that common but it is something to be cautious of.

One of the common reasons for an engine needing this kind of work is if it has been overheated.

These are expensive jobs, so not something you would expect the seller to be immediately offloading the car after having done.

This type of job doesn't always go well. If the job was done cheaply the head may not have been properly tested, and a crack is sometimes found later if the engine does not run well after the work.

Overheating an aluminium cylinder head, like that used in most modern cars, can cause it to lose its' hardness and become weak. Cylinder heads like this should not be reused otherwise they will not seal well and can cause a new head gasket to fail.

Other work

A car that has had paint and panel work should not necessarily be discarded, but if the work was done recently you will want to pay extra attention to make sure the job was done well and that the car hasn't developed some unwanted characteristics since the repairs.

Electrical problems can sometimes be difficult to pinpoint, so recent electrical work could mean that the car has an intermittent electrical fault that may have become too hard or too much trouble to find.

There is, of course, many other types of work that might not have gone well and resulted in the owner putting the car up for sale. It's always a good idea to investigate whether any work was done properly and get a professional inspection if you aren't sure and want an expert opinion.

Interesting new service for used car sellers from Ozcar

2019-10-12T12:00:00+10:00

The NSW-based car dealership group OzCar have introduced an interesting new service for private sellers of cars called OzCar Connect.

You can list your car on the OzCar website for free. Yes, we know - that's not much of a selling point as there are already too many places to list your car.

However, when you list your car you get access to use any OzCar dealership as a safe place to meet potential buyers. You just need to request a time online, and you then get allotted a 1-hour time slot to meet your buyer. You can do this up to three times a week.

OzCar also offers some discounted services to sellers.

There's an $89 mechanical inspection report that can be a good selling point and save potential buyers having to arrange their own inspection (which means you can do it at your own convenience). This is much cheaper than the service offered by Carsales (Redbook Inspect) which costs $260, although you have to take your car to OzCar whereas Redbook comes to you. It's also a lot cheaper than an NRMA inspection (their prices have become a bit of a mystery but are at least two or three hundred dollars).

The other service is a car wash for $24, which isn't too bad a price to save you the trouble of doing it yourself before you meet a buyer.

OzCar's Sydney dealerships are based in the west and south-west so this service won't be of much interest to people in other areas of Sydney. They are located at Lansvale, Campbelltown, Parramatta and Penrith. They also have dealerships on the Central Coast and in Newcastle, and two regional locations at Dubbo and Wodonga.

It's unlikely that listing your car on the OzCar website will put your car in front of any more buyers than Carsales, Gumtree or Facebook Marketplace. Searching for cars requires people to enter their name, email and telephone number which will put a lot of people off. However, the extra services might be of interest to many sellers.

For more information see www.ozcar.com.au/connect.

Selling tips: why are you selling your car?

2019-09-02T12:00:00+10:00

We have seen some strange reasons for selling listed in used car advertisements. Here's a couple of our favourites...

"I just purchased the car for my partner but she can't drive a manual so its reason for sale (sic)..."
- Not sure how well they know their partner to have bought it in the first place!

"Selling due to having 3 cars and no parking space."
- So this is the worst of the three? Next!

When selling a used car it's likely that you are going to be asked why you are selling. What should you say?

Our advice is to be prepared and be honest... kind of.

If your reason for selling is that the car is unreliable then you might want to describe this as you are wanting to upgrade to a newer car.

If the car has a major fault and that is the reason you are selling then it may be a good idea to disclose this is. In some cases, if the seller asked about faults and you did not disclose the fault, and they can later prove that you were aware of the fault, then they may have some legal recourse.

Most buyers realise that cars are sold as the owner wants to upgrade to a better car, whether it be newer or just more reliable. The smarter ones also know that chances are that a used car is going to have some issues that they might not find until after they have bought.

And should you include the reason in your advertising?

Our opinion is that there isn't much point in mentioning the reason in your advertising.

Whatever you write is going to be open to interpretation, and often people will err on the negative side.

Here are some of the common reasons we see and what we think about them:

Selling as moving overseas: Here's my chance to get a bargain!

Selling as moving interstate: Car can't be that good if it's not worth taking with you?

Selling due to loss of license: The car has been trashed by a hoon!

No longer needed due to company car: Sounds like a good reason.

Selling due to upgrade: Sounds like I am getting second best.

Selling due to too many cars: So this is the worst one?

Selling as we don't drive it much: Is that because it's too unreliable?

And our favourite...

Genuine reason for sale: What the hell does that mean?

Using the best photos when selling your used car

2019-08-21T12:00:00+10:00

Photos are a very important part of any used car advertisement. They are the first impression you make on a potential buyer.

Here are our top five tips:

1. Remove personal items

Potential buyers want to see a nice clean car as it gives the impression that the car is cared for.

When taking photos - particularly of the interior - you should remove all personal items and any rubbish.

This includes chargers and cables, messy looking dash cameras, and items hanging from mirrors.

You should also remove food and drinks as buyers may think that the car has been used as a restaurant and be dirty.

Consider removing any personal stickers from car windows. For example, a sticker that says "Vehicle frequently sideways" might give the impression that the car has been mistreated.

We've seen advertisements with photos of car boots with oil and coolant containers. Some buyers are going to assume that means the car has a problem.

And we've even seen photos of pets riding in cars. This will definitely put off many prospective buyers.

In this real example, the seller of this Honda has left their takeaway food on the passenger seat. Not a good look!

2. Include enough photos

Twenty years ago we scoured classified ads for cars that were just text without photos, but these days there's no excuse for not including sufficient photos.

People want to see what the car looks like inside and out.

Believe it or not, some people have listed cars without any photos at all, sometimes saying photos will be provided later or to get in contact and they will send photos. Remember that you only make one first impression!

Our recommendation is to include at least the following photos:

Front-side angled shot (makes a great first photo)
Front and rear shots
Shots of both sides
Interior including dashboard and seats, and maybe the rear seats too
Also consider shots of the engine bay and with the boot/hatch open
If you have the owner's handbooks, a logbook or receipts showing a good service history or multiple keys it can be a good selling feature to include a photo of these.

This is what an advertisement with no photos looks like on Gumtree:

3. Be careful what you photograph

Keep in mind when including photos of the car's instrument cluster that it may expose some concerns to potential buyers.

For example, it may show that a service is overdue or the "check engine" light might be on.

In the case of the following Volvo for sale, there is a warning showing that the coolant level is dangerously low and the engine should be stopped immediately. Strangely, there's no mention of any problems in the seller's description of the car.

4. Use well-lit, high resolution landscape photos

Don't you hate those advertisements with tiny photos, blurry photos, or photos taken at night that you can barely see?

That's why you should use at least reasonably high quality and large photos (640 x 480 absolute minimum).

It's also a good idea to always use landscape format photos as most websites display photos in this format, and portrait photos can get resized to a very small size to fit in the landscape format.

This is how portrait photos appear on Gumtree:

5. Choosing the first photo

The first photo is - not surprisingly - the photo that people see first. Make your first photo a good photo of the outside of the car.

Some people put photos of the inside of the car or the engine bay as their first photo. This is no good for buyers who scan listings and might overlook an advertisement because they don't see a photo of the type of car they are looking for.

Here are some examples of poor choices for the first photo.

Does this listing showing a photo of the back seat stand out to you?

Or how about this one of the dealership selling the car instead of the car itself?

I'm not sure that the first photo should show just a fog lamp and damaged bumper – not exactly putting your best foot forward.

Long registration can be a good selling point but we would not recommend putting a photo of your registration paperwork as your first photo. This seller didn't even bother to obscure their personal details (we have blurred them out).

The importance of price research and knowing when to reduce your price

2019-08-09T12:00:00+10:00

There's an uncommon BMW model that I've been watching on the used car market for some time and it's a good example of the importance of researching the market value when listing a used car for sale - and knowing when to drop your price.

The model is the 2002 to 2005 BMW 320i touring - the only wagon variant of the "E46" 3-series that was sold in Australia.

It was available in automatic and manual, and there was the option of an "M Sport" package which included a sports body kit and sports seats among other options.

To BMW enthusiasts, a manual with the M Sport kit is very desirable, despite this car coming only with the smallest 6-cylinder engine BMW offered on the E46 series (2.2-litre).

As of this time (August 2019), these models have been advertised for as little as $3,500 and the average asking price seems to be under $5,000. However, I've seen two cars advertised for some time for $11,500 and $14,500 respectively. Neither is manual, neither has the M Sport kit, and neither is in one of the popular colours, but both do have fairly low mileage (125,000 km and 160,000 km).

While these two cars have been advertised I've seen far more desireable versions advertised and sold that were listed for a fraction of the price.

For the price these two cars are listed at you could actually get a much newer E91 3-series wagon with much lower mileage. For example, there is a manual 2007 323i with the M Sport option listed for $12,000 at a dealer, and there are 4-cylinder models starting at around $7,500.

The takeaways from this is that it is important to research what similar models are selling for before you list your car for sale. Low mileage can get you a better price but doesn't justify a price two or three times what others are selling for.

Keep in mind that some buyers use the search alerts provided by popular classifieds websites to get notified of when cars get listed, so if you start with a high price and then later reduce it, these buyers may never know. You only get one chance to make a first impression. But if you do a significant price reduction, consider relisting rather than changing your advertisement.

And if you don't get any serious interest in the first week, then there is something wrong. You need to investigate why... Are your advertisements not getting seen or have you priced too high?

An example of over-pricing, poor descriptions and selling an unregistered vehicle

2019-06-28T12:00:00+10:00

We've posted elsewhere about the importance of not over-pricing, good descriptions, and also how hard it can be to sell an unregistered car. Over the last month we've watched a good example of someone who got it wrong.

The car in this example is a 2007 Volvo V50 and not the regular model, but the turbocharged all-wheel-drive T5. A desirable car to many people with a market value of probably $5,000 to $7,000.

Unfortunately the car had suffered a blown head gasket, but was still registered and drive-able, and the seller was wanting to selling as-is.

First mistake the seller made was the price. They started out at $3,500 which is too much given the car probably needs at least $2,500 in repairs. The only people willing to buy a car that needs major repairs want to buy them real cheap so it makes it worthwhile.

Second mistake was the description. They didn't make any mention of it being a T5 and the only way anyone would know was by wading through the specifications or spotting the tiny badge in the photos. They also stated that it could be repaired for a "minor cost". Anyone who has had a head gasket replaced knows otherwise, and how the price adds up because you may as well change a bunch of other parts while you are in there.

The last mistake was letting the car run out of registration before they dropped to a more appropriate price. Over the next few weeks we watched as the seller dropped their asking price first to $3,000, then to $2,000 and today they dropped to $1,200 or best offer. Over this time the car went from being easily transportable to unregistered and requiring towing.

Had they asked for around $2,000 at the beginning and listened to offers they might have found it much easier to sell. We would be surprised if they didn't get offers early on for what they are asking for now and are probably kicking themselves.

This example highlights the difficulty of selling cars that need major repairs. Our advice in this case is to weigh up whether it is worthwhile to get the car repaired yourself and sell as a running vehicle, or price the vehicle cheap enough to make it worthwhile for someone to take on the repairs instead.

More used car quotes

2019-06-12T12:00:00+10:00

Seller: "Very sad to see this car go. Looked after like a baby..."

In the same advertisement that this seller says they have looked after their 2003 BMW 3-Series like a baby and had it serviced regularly, they also say that it failed roadworthy because:

• Front tyres worn
• Rear brake pads and tyres worn under limit
• Wiper blades
• Windscreen washer jet pump not working
• Radiator has a crack and needs an occasional top-up
...amongst other faults.

Sure, these are minor issues, but we're a bit worried that if this seller does have an actual baby how well is it being cared for? It likely hasn't had a nappy change in a couple of days and is sucking on a faulty dummy!

Best quotes from today's used car listings

2019-03-01T12:00:00+10:00

We scour the classifieds for the most entertaining used car descriptions. Here's the best from today's listings...

Found this in a listing for a 2005 BMW 320i:

"Seat belt sign and air bag sign shows but it’s normal nothing wrong with car I already double check with bmw service centre they say that’s normal with these cars..."

It's pretty normal for BMWs to have lots of problems. Doesn't mean that they don't need to be fixed though, does it?

From the same listing:

"Cheap car selling because I moving to wA"

Pretty sure they have roads in Western Australia too.

And this on a 2004 Honda Accord Euro listing:

"a really nice car with no issues.... air con ( just stopped working 25/02 ) ... a/c compressor seized $100"

Okay, so maybe one issue?

And on another Accord Euro listing:

"Has a small grind on gear 3 but completely driveable. I skip gear 3 to prevent any damage to the gearbox. Also Can be driven like a normal."

But what happens if we drive it like a normal?

How to find out the selling dealer on a Carsales.com.au advertisement

2018-08-01T12:00:00+10:00

Don't you find it annoying when you are looking at a car for sale on Carsales.com.au and you don't know where the selling dealer is?

Sure you can type in your postcode and they will tell you that you are less than 100 km away or something like that, but some of us want to simply know what suburb the dealer is in.

Or you could try Google-ing the registration number and maybe find the car advertised on another site that doesn't hide the dealer's name and location.

But there's a simpler way... Most likely due to motor vehicle dealer advertising laws, Carsales.com.au has included the dealer's name and license number, but they have hidden it way down in the footer in small light-coloured print.

Ignore the phone number and Google the dealer's name or license number and you will find the information you are wanting.

Choosing a Cheap Used Car

2018-01-12T12:00:00+10:00

When you are looking for a cheap car to buy, you also want one that will be cheap to maintain. The following advice will help you choose a model that requires minimal regular maintenance.

4-cylinder, Inline 6-cylinder or V6?

Cars with bigger engines are generally more powerful and smoother to drive than those with smaller engines, but they can also use more fuel.

The number of cylinders and the configuration of the engine will also affect maintenance costs. If you compare an inline 4 cylinder engine to a V6 engine, the cost will be less as there are two fewer spark plugs, ignition leads, ignition coils, and generally the larger the engine the more oil and the more coolant that is required.

A “vee” configuration engine such as a V6 or V8 has two banks of cylinders instead of one, so that means there is more maintenance required and potentially more parts that could fail or wear out including cylinder heads, exhaust headers and other parts.

Some manufacturers like Subaru use “flat” engines, which like “vee” engines, also have two banks of cylinders.

A smaller engine will usually mean it uses less fuel, but this will, of course, depend on the way the car is driven. Note that more cylinders can potentially mean a less stressed engine and a longer life.

Recommendation: Inline 4-cylinder engines usually have less maintenance costs and generally use less fuel than other engine configurations.

A Subaru flat four cylinder engine. Note that it has double the cylinder heads, camshafts, variable valve timing gear, various sensors and many other parts over an inline four cylinder engine. Image credit: Zytonits, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Timing belt or timing chain?

Engines with timing belts need to have the belt replaced regularly. Failure to replace the belt can result in major damage to the engine, that would usually require an expensive rebuild or engine replacement.

The cost to replace the timing belt varies from model to model, but is usually at least A$500 and often significantly more. Whilst the belt is being replaced, most workshops will also suggest that other components in the same area of the engine are replaced, such as water pumps and belt tensioners, which can further increase the cost.

The alternative is an engine with a timing chain. Generally, the timing chain will last the life of the car, so can be a significant saving in maintenance costs over a car equipped with a timing belt. But beware as there are some models which are prone to timing chain problems.

Recommendation: Choose an engine with a timing chain and check reviews for any common problems with the timing chain in that model.

An typical example of a timing belt kit: when changing the belt you may as well also change the water pump, belt tensioner, idler wheels, and possibly other parts depending on the model.

Petrol or diesel?

Diesel engines have become very popular in recent years, due to better fuel economy and longer driving range.

However, owners who use their diesel cars mostly for short trips rather than long distance driving may suffer increased maintenance costs and reliability issues. Many diesel engines will suffer if they do not regularly run at normal operating temperature for long periods so are best driven on the highway at least once a week.

It is also becoming more commonplace for petrol cars to require premium unleaded. Premium is around 15% more expensive than regular unleaded or E10.

Recommendation: Petrol engines are a better choice for cars that spend their life in city and suburban areas.

Should I buy a European car?

European cars have a well-earnt reputation for being expensive to maintain.

Some brands are worse than others. The more popular European brands like BMW have many alternate sources of parts and independent workshops specialising in them.

Owning a European car can be comparable to any other car if you follow some advice. The first advice is to find an independent mechanic who knows that brand of car and have them do your servicing and repairs. This actually also applies to cars from any country, as the factory dealer service centres are usually the most expensive places to have your work carried out on your car.

European cars often also require a minimum of 95 octane (premium) fuel.

The other piece of advice is that you should consider buying your own parts and providing them to your mechanic. This can delay repairs, but there are usually many sources of parts that are much cheaper than buying from the dealer. Some parts are significantly cheaper if bought from overseas if you can wait. Often, time-poor mechanics or those not familiar with alternate parts suppliers for a particular brand, will just pick up the phone and call the closest dealer for parts.

Recommendation: If considering a European car, keep to the more popular brands, and find a good independent mechanic.

Front, rear, all or four-wheel drive?

Rear-wheel drive cars are usually easier to work on as there is better access to the front of the engine so jobs like belts and water pump replacements can be simpler and subsequently less expensive.

Front-wheel drive cars typically require regular replacement of the CV joints that drive the wheels.

All-wheel drive cars usually send power to either just the front or rear wheels but are capable of sending power to the other wheels when extra traction is needed. This can make them safer in some circumstances. All-wheel drives have an extra differential, driveshafts and electronics so have more components that can go wrong. This also means extra weight so they can go through fuel, tyres, suspension and brakes more than a two-wheel drive vehicle.

Four-wheel drives are off-road capable vehicles, usually with the ability to lock the driving wheels and with a low range option. These are usually much heavier vehicles and, like all-wheel drive cars, will be much harder on fuel, tyres, suspension and brakes. They can also require extra maintenance and 4WD tyres are usually more expensive.

Recommendation: If you don't have a need to go off-road regularly then stick to a regular two-wheel drive or an all-wheel drive if you want the extra safety or desire an SUV.

Manual, automatic, CVT, DSG...?

Manual transmissions are becoming rare but are generally the most reliable of the choices. Clutches do wear out and need replacement, which can be expensive. These can generally last 100 - 150,000 km depending on how they are treated.

In modern vehicles, there are quite a few different types of automatic transmissions.

The most common type is the conventional automatic transmission with a torque converter. Reliability of these varies significantly. Some models are very reliable and some are fragile. When they fail they can be expensive to repair or replace. It is important to research the specific model you are interested in to see if the transmissions are typically good or best avoided.

CVT transmissions are becoming increasingly popular. Again, it is important to research these as reliability varies greatly. Some brands (eg. Nissan) have had major problems with their CVTs and these are best avoided as they may not last long and are expensive to repair or replace. CVTs seem to be more suitable to smaller vehicles, and some of the larger cars with CVTs have been more problematic.

Also, some CVTs drive differently to conventional automatic transmissions and some people don't like them, so it is worthwhile to test drive the model you are interested in and see if you like it. Some brands (eg. Toyota) are programming their CVTs to operate more like conventional automatics.

There are other types of transmission like Volkswagen's DSG, Ford's PowerShift, BMW's SMG and Alfa Romeo's Selespeed. Although some of these may provide a better driving experience, all of these brands have had considerable problems with their transmissions. It pays to do your research to see how reliable the model you are interested in is.

Recommendation: Research, research, research!

What size car?

Often the size of car you need is dictated by what you need to carry, whether it be people or goods.

But registration costs in Australia are generally based on the weight of the car. For example, at the time of writing, a very small car (under 975kg) costs $270 per year, and a large car (1505 to 2504kg) costs $579 a year. So if you are trying to save money, then it is worth checking the registration cost for the model or models that you are considering buying.

A larger, heavier car will generally use more fuel, of course, so you will also save money when you fill up with fuel.

Recommendation: check registration costs for your state.